Two Wheels, Three Days, and a Whole Lot of Weather

Or: How I accidentally time-traveled into the Middle Ages

Let’s be honest here: it all started quite innocently. A man, his bike, and a vague sense of adventure – the classic setup. Ladenburg was my starting point, the Hunsrück the distant, mysterious goal. Just me, my steel steed (Savanna, because that name deserves a spot in an epic), and the vague notion that fresh air, headwinds, and random rain showers are somehow good for the soul.

Day 1 – Saturday: The Road to Oppenheim, and an Unexpected Time Travel

I made it to Oppenheim after a day that felt like riding through a Weißweincommercial: vineyards everywhere, hills that look innocent from a distance but turn into personal Everest expeditions up close, and enough “Where am I?” moments to question my map-reading skills. And just when I thought, This day can’t get any wetter, the rain arrived. Buckets. Biblical.

Lucky me: I found shelter at a Bett und Bike place, where I could dry out, plug in Savanna’s battery, and… wait, was that the sound of bagpipes?

Turns out, Oppenheim wasn’t just a pit stop – it was in the middle of a full-blown medieval festival. Yes, 800 Jahre Stadtrechte, and apparently they throw a party like it’s 1325. The Burg Landskron was packed: knights clanking around in armor, fire shows that made me wonder about the fire code, and a bustling market with over 45 stalls offering everything from bone carving to leather belts. There was even a lady reading fortunes and a guy explaining the secret history of names. I half expected someone to ask if I had brought my own sword.

And the food – oh boy. Bull ribs, onion meat, grilled cauliflower, and a stand called “Grätenburg” selling fish specialties. You could get crepes, waffles, roasted nuts, or quark balls for dessert. The tavern served beer, mead, cherry beer, and, for the brave, water. Kids were everywhere: fighting mock battles, chasing dragons (or was it rats?), and getting their faces painted while their parents tried to sneak an extra pint.

Honestly, if I hadn’t locked up Savanna in the courtyard, I might’ve believed I’d slipped through a wormhole and into a Canterbury Tales cosplay convention.

Day 2 – Sunday: Wind, Rain, and a Whole Lot of Soggy Miles

Murphy’s Law never sleeps. Wind and rain – always from the front. It’s like the universe has a personal vendetta against cyclists. From Oppenheim to Bacharach, it was a constant battle: me vs. the elements, Savanna doing her best to keep me upright, and the occasional mental breakdown every time a medieval juggler popped back into my mind’s eye.

By the time I reached Bacharach, soaked to the bone and slightly delirious from too much medieval air, I found another Bett und Bike spot. Warm bed, dry socks, and Savanna safely parked – the simple joys of life.

Day 3 – Monday: Climbing into the Hunsrück, Finally a Dry Day

Bacharach to Mörsdorf – this was the ride I had been both dreading and dreaming of. The hills looked brutal from the map, but they turned out to be surprisingly doable. Savanna worked like a charm, my legs didn’t give up completely, and the weather? Cool, dry, and perfect. It’s funny how a little sunshine can make the same ride feel like a victory lap instead of a slow death.

By the time I rolled into Mörsdorf, I felt like I’d made it to my own castle – minus the drawbridge. The medieval market had faded into memory, replaced by the quiet satisfaction of a cyclist who survived rain, wind, and questionable dietary choices involving mead.

The future? Who knows. Maybe fewer hills. Maybe more bakeries. But one thing’s for sure: I’ll be back in the saddle, chasing the next adventure – preferably without a medieval army following me.

Stay tuned.